Faq

-Where is the inventory and how come I can't find your baits in tackle stores?

I mainly sell direct with the exception of a few stores on Lake Biwa in Japan and in San Diego,Ca. For the time being I'm a one man garage business. The lures I make take a considerable amount of time both in prototyping and manufacturing process. The amount of labor involved in hand crafting fishing lures is very time consuming as opposed to most injected lures that are mass produced. For updates or questions about future releases I encourage you to email me at hiroshimacustoms@gmail.com

 

- I never know what you're going to release?

Often times I follow the water temperature and do releases accordingly. For example warmwater fish such as bluegill, carp, and baby bass patterns from spring through fall. With Coldwater species such as trout,kokanee,and perch from fall through spring. Again please don't hesitate to email to stay connected.

 

-How long does a batch take?

Depending on the level of detail and size of the bait this can take anywhere from 4-8 weeks. I will often work on multiple batches while waiting for cure cycles to complete. 

 

-Do you do custom patterns or repaint work? 

Unfortunately at this time I have to focus on making my baits available. I am however constantly trying to introduce new patterns to keep fish from getting conditioned. 

 

- How do I know which pattern to pick? 

I try to paint contrasting patterns in each model. Some are flashy and others are more subdued and natural. One does not necessarily work better than the other, but one may excel better depending on the conditions. Sometime the more visible a bait is in stained/dirty water the more you increase your strike zone. On the other side of things the clearer the water sometimes the more natural pattern will succeed in drawing fish from further away to investigate. 

 

-What sink rate is most popular? 

Choosing a sink rate in my opinion is a matter of knowing where you want to apply the bait and how long/wide the strike zone is.

Floaters tend to excel in warmer months OR if clear water is present (even in the dead of winter).

Super slow sinks work well when fish are setup on cover such as docks,weed edges,and long points but can also work well when you just need a bait that will not sink out when fish follow. 

Slow sinks and medium sinks are good all purpose sink rates. They give you the ability to cover water better and dial in the depth the fish are holding at.  Once you find them it is easier to work different presentations/angles to pick them apart and catch them.

 

Do you recommend using a snap or swivel?

This is a subjective topic but I recommend either Owner Hyper Lock Snaps or Decoy Snaps. Using a snap/split ring throws the head sooner and creates more freedom. Make sure you change your snaps out, metal fatigue is not something you want to experience.  As with all things though please experiment and find what you like best.

 

Can I change my hooks out to a different brand or size? 

Some baits are more forgiving than others, but generally speaking I advise people to stay with what I've chosen for the bait as it's part of a system. I have have the ultimate confidence in my hardware and it has been thoroughly tested by some of the best big bait fishermen over the years. 

 

Do glide baits only work in the winter/spring? 

Easiest way for me to answer this is to look at glide baits like an oversized jerk bait. Ask yourself do jerk baits ever go out of season? We have the distinct advantage of utilizing a bait that has significant drawing power, casting distance,action, and life like appearance. Figuring out the depth,cadence,and angle is all part of trophy fishing. Keep an open mind and try different approaches. 

 

How do I reel the bait?

This can vary depending on which bait and water temps. The colder the water the slower the presentation generally (again think rip bait). As the water warms the strike zone will expand and fish will move further. You can start to play with cadence and bursts more, but It's important to note you want to let the fish get the hooks and not over work your bait. Glide bait bites can be very cat and mouse.. ask yourself does the biggest mouse want to run fast? 

 

 

 

Troubleshooting

-My glide bait stays going in one direction? 

As with all soft tailed glide bait designs when a tail is bent and not straight as an arrow this forces the bait to go in one direction or favor a side more so. The tails on glide baits act like a boat rudder and have a strong impact on the baits action. If this not the case I can examine the bait free of charge. 

-How can I fix my bent tail? 

You can make a few quick dips in boiling water for a second or two at a time. This generally resets the memory. If this doesn't work check the site for replacements or email me. 

 

-How do I store my glide baits?

I try to encourage guys to use the bait wraps I've designed. They're padded and help shim the tails into place. I've also been working on a wrap system that will be available soon that will keep everything together. Best thing is to try and be conscious of where your baits are. 

 

-My hook bent are these not strong enough?

Hook points bend at times and it's not necessarily because a hook is weak but more so because of the way the fish caught the point. With glide baits fish are often not getting the hooks like they do a slow moving bait that stays headed in one direction. One thing I personally like to do is double my split rings to move the hook points away from the body of the bait more. This also helps aid when fish thrash around and try to throw the bait. 

 

Why do you not use 3 or 4x hooks? 

Simply put thinner wire hooks hook more fish. With glide baits fish often slash. Heavier wire hooks have a harder time penetrating with baits that wander off axis.